If you're a reg­u­lar read­er of my blog, you prob­a­bly already agree that dil­dos can be high­ly col­lectible pieces of art. They're func­tion­al tools, but it sure as hell helps me get excit­ed when I find a dil­do aes­thet­i­cal­ly pleas­ing. That's why I am the njoy Eleven's biggest fan­girl, I appre­ci­ate a tight­ly swirled mar­bling by Uberrime, and I'm always on the look­out for quirky sil­i­cone fuckables.

A dil­do shaped like a THICC nun. Or one with a sword han­dle. A calla lily vibra­tor. Vegetable dil­dos. A Neapolitan-​colored Ass Cram Cone butt plug. An Australia-​shaped base. The cre­ativ­i­ty demon­strat­ed in non-​representational per­verta­bles is delightful.

Sometimes, cus­tomiz­ing a dil­do can be as sim­ple as heat­ing and squeez­ing a Dodil or try­ing out a Clone-​A-​Willy kit. But if you've ever want­ed to make your own sil­i­cone dil­dos from scratch, Mermaid Brandie and the Sex Toy Collective made a fan­tas­tic free video course on it! To save you some time, I've assem­bled a quick list of resources and tips for the begin­ning stages of mak­ing a dildo.

1. Making the Dildo Model

You have some options here, like 3D print­ing your mod­el or sculpt­ing one out of clay.

3D Printing Dildo Designs

Here are some CAD pro­grams you can use to export designs as .stl files. If you have a 3D print­er, use that, and if you don't, you can upload the file to a web­site like 3D Hubs. They'll print one for you! I sug­gest get­ting an ABS plas­tic mod­el. Sand down the fin­ish to smooth it, and you're good to go on to the next phase!

If you're look­ing to make some­thing sim­ple, this Dildo-​Sculptor is the place to start. It's best for quick­ly mak­ing solids of rev­o­lu­tion with options for adding basic bumps, bulges, swirls, and — of course — a C‑curve for P‑spotting or G‑spotting.

Maybe you want to design a dil­do more com­plex than what the Dildo-​Sculptor can do. In that case, con­sid­er TinkerCAD or Ultimaker Cura. They're free, open-​source, beginner-​friendly 3D print­ing soft­ware that the unini­ti­at­ed can quick­ly fig­ure out.

Sculpting a Dildo Model Out of Clay

Casting a DIY dil­do starts with the right equip­ment and mate­ri­als. If you're mak­ing a sil­i­cone mold, that means using a sulfur-​free sculpt­ing com­pound, like Monster Makers' Clay or PRIMA Plastilina. Sulfur inter­feres with the sil­i­cone cur­ing process, and we don't want that.

A clean and smooth work sur­face is pre­ferred, of course. To soft­en the clay and make it more pli­able, a microwave (use low heat for short peri­ods!) or blow dry­er may help.

You could mod­el entire­ly with your hands, but sculpt­ing spat­u­las and wire loops max­i­mize the pos­si­bil­i­ties. Mermaid Brandie also sug­gest­ed using a rolling pin and cook­ie cut­ter to make a crisp and lev­el base for your dil­do to stand on. When you're ready to attach the dil­do to it, spread some warm clay and use it as "glue" between them. Then smooth out the juncture.

Finally, for a smooth fin­ish, you can brush some iso­propyl alco­hol on your mod­el. Use a high-​quality brush, so that it won't shed bristles.

2. Making the Silicone Mold

There are many dif­fer­ent kinds of molds, but we'll focus on sil­i­cone block molds and glove molds here. Mermaid Brandy demon­strat­ed these two tech­niques using Mold Star™ 15 SLOW and Ecoflex 00–35 FAST, respectively.

If you're mak­ing a block mold, you'll need a box to con­tain your mod­el. It should be big enough that the dil­do doesn't touch the sides or go over the top. Sturdy tape seals off the edges and pos­si­ble gaps so that the sil­i­cone doesn't leak. We also don't want air bub­bles, so slow­ly driz­zle the sil­i­cone to sub­merge the mod­el. Then, while the mold solid­i­fies, using a pres­sure pot or vac­u­um cham­ber fur­ther reduces air bubbles.

For a glove mold, you would still care­ful­ly envel­op the mod­el, in a lay­er of sil­i­cone about 1/​2 inch thick. Plaster ban­dages wrap around it and serve as the "con­tain­er."

In either case, make sure to thor­ough­ly clean any left­over clay out of the mold before cast­ing the final product!

3. The Silicone Casting Process

The fourth video in the series focus­es on mak­ing your own dual-​density dil­do. This process involves two molds— one for the firm inner core, and one for the plush out­er lay­er. Brandie used Ecoflex 30 and 20 sil­i­cone, respec­tive­ly. Pigments and glit­ter are option­al but way more fun!

Regardless of whether you decide to make a sin­gle or dual-​density dil­do, spray­ing the mold with a release agent keeps the cast sep­a­rate. You don't want them to stick! You would, how­ev­er, want the cen­ter to stick to the "skin." Dish soap wash­es the release off the core before cast­ing the sec­ond layer.

A block mold can stand up on its own, but with glove mold, you'll need an out­er con­tain­er sup­port­ing it. Just like with the pre­vi­ous step, mix the sil­i­cone, pour it in, and let it cure. Then, peel the base and pull the insertable por­tion. Voila! All that's left to do is wash it. Then it's ready for dis­play and play!

Further Reading

Also check out my review and guide to mak­ing the most of a Clone-​A-​Willy kit. I used it to make a glow-​in-​the-​dark sil­i­cone copy of my boyfriend's penis — but it wasn't all smooth sail­ing. Learn from our mistakes!

What would you cast into a silicone sex toy?

What shape, fea­tures, and col­ors would it include? How squishy would you like it? Would there be glit­ter? Tell me in the comments!